From 2020, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner without a date display, considered by many to be the archetypal dive watch, is slightly larger and has an updated movement, but remains true to its original design.
Rolex 2020
Rolex introduced a new generation of Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Submariner Date watches in September. These watches are slightly larger and now equipped with new movements — the Submariner has the recently introduced Caliber 3230, and the new Submariner Date versions use Caliber 3235 for the first time. The Submariner Date offers a surprising array of color combinations, while the Submariner without a date display remains true to its original design. We were able to preview the new Submariner shortly after its launch.
Improved details lead to new proportions
If you think a Rolex innovation means revolution, you'd be wrong. But the Submariner has been modified so that the sum of the various details has resulted in a new watch. The diameter of the watch has grown from 40mm to 41mm, or more precisely from 40.6mm to 41.36mm measured diagonally from 2 o'clock to 8 o'clock. The crown and lug guards are slimmer, but this has increased the width of the lugs by a full millimeter to 21mm.
These seemingly minor improvements have changed the proportions of the entire watch — including the main body of the case, bezel, dial and bracelet. That means you're looking at an entirely new model. If you place the new Oyster Perpetual Submariner next to its predecessor (which has been discontinued), the changes become apparent. The new Submariner looks much more than a millimeter larger than the older version, which is due to numerous modifications to even the smallest detail.
Less obvious is the new in-house self-winding movement, caliber 3230, because, as with any Rolex watch, it is covered by a finely fluted caseback that is screwed down hermetically with a special key and can only be opened by a Rolex-authorized manufacturer of watches. The difference in the Caliber 3235 is that there is no date display on the Submariner dial.
Otherwise, all other functions are the same. The new Submariner is equipped with Rolex's patented, innovative Chronergy escapement made of nickel-phosphorus alloy. It provides superior functional reliability with high energy efficiency and is resistant to the effects of magnetic fields. The movement also has an optimized version of the Rolex Parachrom hairspring.
Rolex manufactures the hairspring in-house from a paramagnetic alloy, making it up to 10 times more precise than conventional hairsprings. It also has a special Rolex coil that ensures stable speed in all positions. The oscillator is supported by the excellent Rolex-designed and patented Paraflex antishock system. Thanks to the higher efficiency of the escapement mechanism and barrel design, both Caliber 3230 and Caliber 3235 have a power reserve of 70 hours. In addition to the COSC chronometer test, the watch must also pass Rolex's rigorous in-house "Superlative Chronometer" test, which according to current 2015 specifications allows for a deviation of no more than 2 seconds per day.
The Submariner comes from a time when dive watches were used more for professional applications than recreational diving. For this reason, they remain true to their original appeal today - as clearly telling the time while diving is a matter of life and death. The Submariner's clear and simple dial remains unchanged. The hour and minute hands are adapted from Rolex Deepsea and are different from each other to prevent any confusion. The triangle, circle and rectangle markers are designed to provide orientation and increased legibility and prevent possible mistakes underwater or on dry land. The hands and markers are covered in Rolex Chromalight luminous material and glow a bright blue in the dark. The raised dot at the end of the second hand serves as a functional check and is also luminescent. In addition, the zero marker on the dive panel is also filled with the same luminous material to provide better orientation when setting the dive time.
The diving watch is distinguished by technical characteristics
The panel moves perfectly, counter-clockwise, in crisp half-minute increments. Deep serrated grooves around the edge provide a secure grip for wet hands or diving gloves. The rotating ring has a Cerachrom digital insert made of special black ceramic. The recessed numerals and markers on the 60-minute track are coated with a thin layer of platinum through a PVD process. Rolex has developed expertise and an innovative manufacturing process to create strong, color-rich and highly scratch-resistant special ceramics for the production of monobloc bezels and tracks, and now has its own fully independent production of ceramic components.
The bezel with a ceramic insert is part of the robust Oyster case, for which Rolex guarantees a pressure resistance of 30 bar, corresponding to a water depth of 300 meters. It is the epitome of durability and reliability. Its case frame is manufactured from a single block of highly corrosion-resistant stainless steel, which Rolex calls "Oystersteel". In addition to the hermetically sealed caseback, the Triplock winding crown also ensures certain water resistance with its triple seal, screw-down construction and protective crown guards. The top crystal is made of scratch-resistant sapphire. The submariner's date adds a cyclops magnifier at 3 o'clock for better date readability.
The new Submariner is equipped with an Oyster bracelet, including its patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp and Glidelock extension system, which allows the bracelet to be simply extended up to 20mm using a 10-speed slide. So much perfection doesn't need a revolution to remain the undisputed standard among dive watches.
SPECIFICATIONS:
Manufacturer: Rolex S.A., Rue François Dussaud 3-5, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Reference number: 124060
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, diving bezel
Movement: Rolex Caliber 3230, automatic, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, Paraflex shock absorber, Rolex paramagnetic balance with four Microstella gold adjusting screws, Parachrom blued paramagnetic mainspring, COSC certificate, Rolex Superlative Chronometer quality seal (+/- 2 seconds) per day after plating), 70-hour power reserve, diameter = 29.3 mm, height = 6.20 mm
Case: Oystersteel, bezel with Cerachrom insert, sapphire crystal above the dial, water resistant to 300 meters
Bracelet & Clasp: Oysterlock steel bracelet with Oysterlock safety folding clasp with Glidelock extension
Dimensions: Diameter = 41.36 mm, lug width = 21 mm integrated, height = 12.40 mm
Price: $8,100 at Rolex